Surfing Analogy -
29-09-2011, 10:41 PM
Today I had the best surfing session I have ever had! Period!
However I caught all of 4 waves in 2 hours of surfing! It did however make me think about how it is similar to life and even PU.
Whenever I have been surfing before, I've always caught decent waves and really enjoyed myself getting wet and a little battered, pushing myself and always smiling. This is very much like work. I've been a supervisor and done some pretty good things. Also with girls, I've always got a couple of HB8 and maybe eve the odd HB9 on the go.
So today I went out and the waves were ace - 5ft near the shore but I noticed the pros further back catching some sweet waves so after catching 2 easy waves up front, i decided i was gonna head out to the back where the action was. I however kept getting beaten back by these beasts time and time again.
I came in and took a rest for 10mins and just watched the pros and how the waves were breaking. I noticed there was a slight rip to 1 side by the rocks and that if you paddles out then came across I could get out back. So I took the risk of going into the rip by the rocks and after some pretty hard paddling to the point where i could barely raise my arms, I finally got out back during a break in the wave sets. The next thing I know a set of 12ft monsters comes along, 1 right over my head! Instead of panicking and bailing out, i relax and came up, grabbed my board and got over the next wave before it could break. Then I saw another 12ft beast coming right up towards me so I turned around and paddled like fuck
I felt it pick my tail up and pushed with the pitiful strength I had to pop up managing to ride it down and along. the strength of this wave, a wall of water pushing me along like nothing i've felt before was immense, i felt it beginning to break and took myself straight out to the front where I thought it would stop but it just kept pushing like a steam train, better than any woman, sex, film, music or experience I have ever felt before.
How this relates.
I had to stop and take stock of what was going on - where I would best place myself. Sich as in life; Look for the best opportunity.
Next I had to take a risk - the bigger the risk, the better they pay but also the bigger the fall but if you don't play you'll never win!
Then I had to put in the effort - You need to go that extra mile more than you think you have, my arms were literally falling off and I had to keep going and even get myself on the board
enjoy the reward - why do it if you won't enjoy it, stay on it and experience everything it has to offer
All in all I have had a tiring and immense day so i might be talking shit then again I might be thinking clearly for the first time in a while...
Be desireless. Be awesome. Be gone
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